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Organizations

Hillary Hauser

Heal the Ocean

when everyone is out with smiles on their faces, enjoying

nature together, enjoying the sea. Does this make me a

Pollyanna?

What are three things that have changed surfing

for you?

A decent bodyboard, which is a goofy looking thing

called an Ahi board given to me by Roger Nance at the

Beach House in Santa Barbara. Looks like a styrofoam

toy from TGY, but has a pointed nose, concave bottom

and great flotation! (Why is there not more innovation

in the world of bodyboard building? 2) great friends who

have encouraged me to try different breaks in different

parts of the world, to go for more challenging situations,

that have, at times, scared the living beejeezus out of

me! 3) working with Heal the Ocean - giving me a greater

sense of what we can lose not only in surfing, but

everything we do in the ocean.

What has stayed the same is a love for the ocean,

playing in it as I have done since I was a little kid.

Who do you respect the most in surfing?

Probably Jeff Johnson and his family (Petey, Trent,

Jack - all Hawaiian watermen) and Jeff’s wife, Patti. This

family is tight-knit and loving, and their house at Pipeline

is a center of action on the North Shore. They take time

for everyone - and Jeff, with his incredible reputation

for doing the most hair-raising things on the most

hair-raising waves, is completely humble and makes no

big deal out of anything. The most regular guy I know,

and takes time for everyone.

The least?

I’m not sure of this one - could only be described in

general characteristics - aggro behavior, for example.

A New Initiative:

"The Ocean Is Not a Dump";

Being a Surfer - and an Activist