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Organizations
coast!) - from Sandyland, Sand Point, Padaro Lane and
Beach Club Road. This constitutes about 170 homes that
had been using septic systems on the beach from the
Ventura County line north to Carpinteria/Summerland.
Many times I have publicly credited surfers for the
creation of Heal the Ocean. When the beaches started to
close in the Santa Barbara area due to bacteria, I was
doing a story on surfboard shapers. Clyde Beatty, a Santa
Barbara surfboard shaper, interrupted my interview with
him by literally hitting me on the head with a
questionnaire about surfing-related illnesses, a
questionnaire put together by CURE (Clean Up Rincon
Effluent). “You should be writing about this!” Beatty
said, “Not me!”
And so I did. The result was my lengthy editorial in
the Santa Barbara News-Press, published August 9, 1998,
titled “Another Day at the Beach?” This editorial started
a revolution in Santa Barbara, including a public
demonstration on the county building, and by the end of
August Heal the Ocean was formed.
How are surfers involved in Heal the Ocean?
Surfers are the soul of Heal the Ocean. Not only did
surfers inspire the formation of our group, but they came
to the battlelines exactly when we needed them! For
instance, when Heal the Ocean was working hard to get
the Rincon homeowners to endorse a $9000 preliminary
sewer engineering study, and at the same time was raising
$23,500 we needed for a DNA study of the Rincon
watershed, we needed to get this money together fast!
A miracle occurred when Glenn Hening organized
the 1998 Rincon Clean Water Classic to benefit Heal the
Ocean, because surfers showed up from everywhere to
participate and contribute. There were big names there,
too, and the overall spirit was just fantastic! At the end
of it all, Heal the Ocean was presented two checks totaling
$7500, and this windfall made it possible for Heal the
Ocean to write up the order for the sewer engineering
study for the Rincon. For this, and for the DNA testing
we began soon afterward, we also received money from
the Santa Barbara chapter of Surfrider.
Equally vital to our efforts has been the fact that it
has always been a surfer who steps forward to do “grunt
work,” who helps us on the day-to-day grind that is
all-important to running a nonprofit organization. For
example, when we were buried under the impossible task
of getting the onslaught of an enthusiastic public onto a
computerized mailing list, M.J. Cunningham, a member
of the Santa Barbara Surf Club, stepped in to help. She
has been tireless in keeping our mailing list current, no
small task as this list grows by leaps and bounds.
The Santa Barbara Surf Club donates its contest
money to Heal the Ocean, and two local surfers, Mike
Furner and Char Harris, are always willing to run around
and do last-minute errands for us. I think surfers are just
the best!
Having been involved in the diving/underwater scene
in the ocean for over thirty years, including environmental
work and writing, nowhere have I seen environmental
consciousness and diligence at such a high level as I have
seen with surfers. As it relates to the ocean, surfers are
the canaries in the coal mine. They are out there, in the
sea, day after day, year around. When something
pollution-related happens, the surfer is the first to know
about it. For the most part, surfers love what they do out
of a profound respect for the sea.
How has your relationship with the ocean affected
your family and friends?
Interesting question. All my life no one (including
me) has ever questioned my relationship with the ocean,
the work I do in regards to the sea. In a way I feel fortunate
that my career path was so obvious - straight to the sea,
the minute I graduated from college. My professional
outline (attached) to this questionnaire outlines it. I was
working for Skin Diver Magazine nearly immediately
upon graduation - during the 1960s, when underwater
exploration was in its prime pioneering phase - when
cameras were just going beneath the surface.
What's your opinion about the endless adolescence
common to surfers?
I would call it youthfulness, which is completely
refreshing. I don’t know what I would do hooked up to
someone who did not enjoy the ocean on a day-to-day
basis. Those who don’t surf or enjoy the ocean seem to
me to be completely missing the point of living on this
planet. That shows my prejudice!
What have been some of the successes and mistakes
during your career involvement with the ocean?
Many mistakes, which always happen when you’re
trying something new. Attached is summary of successes
- writings, books published, etc.
Has the surf industry improved or decreased the
quality of your surfing experience?
I wish someone would make a truly good boogie board
- like a Joe Thompson - spoon shaped, with good flotation,
a double-fin (concave) bottom, without it costing $500 for
a custom-made job. For people like me who don’t do
spinners and rollovers or whatever they’re called.
What are your experiences with surfers being
altruistic?
See above.
What are your experiences with surfers being selfish?
Sometimes in the lineup. Most guys are super-cool
and don’t mind a tea-bagger in their midst, even a
middle-aged one, even a woman! And at the Rincon I
am actually invited sometimes to have a wave! I’ve
noticed however, the bigger the waves, the bigger the
heated brain. Basically, the selfish stuff comes out, it
seems to me, when egos and self-involvement, and fear
take over - fear of not getting one's share, fear of looking
stupid, fear, fear. Just like life - when things get heavy,
fear sets in, and the ego takes over - push, push, push!
You might not get yours! Not enough love! Not enough
money! Not enough waves!
There’s nothing more fun than when everyone’s out
having a good time, not pushed by fear, not worried about
show or the number of waves they get. It’s just the best
